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When curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.